Photography: Thummerer Pince

Apart from the best French wines, Hungarian red wines were also wildly popular up until the beginning of World War II. However, in Communist times everything was mass produced and primarily for export to the Soviet Union. The good vintners worked abroad.

Only after the political turning point in 1989 were they again allowed to plant vineyards and make wine. Tibor Gál, who had created Ornellaia, the cult wine for the Tuscan Marchese Antinori, returned home. Many wineries in the West, such as Franz Keller from Baden, but also wineries from France and Italy bought vineyards in Hungary.

Fortunately, the white varieties grow along the Lake Balaton, along the Danube and Tisza, where suitable fish dishes are available. The reds, in contrast, thrive in the north-eastern hills surrounding Eger, where abundant game is hunted in the forests, and in Villány and Szeged in the south. In addition, there the vintners with Swabian heritage cook excellent Hungarian dishes.

Whether red or white, in blind taste tests Hungarian wines are regularly awarded silver and gold medals in Bordeaux, Paris, London and Tokyo. Regardless, there are several reasons why they are virtually unknown of elsewhere: The vineyards are relatively small and the operations are small businesses. Hungarians themselves drink the good wines. On top of it all, they celebrate their vintners like stars, pushing up the prices.

Thus, hotels in wine-growing villages are booked solid at the weekends. Most guests are well-dressed young people between 20 and 40 years of age. They taste the wines, eat an abundant meal and upon departing take with them some boxes of six along with the memory of shaking the hand of their wine star. At home they command admiration when they open a bottle of Attila Gere or József Bock for their friends.

This is how the vintners sell approximately 20 to 25 percent of their production directly from the wine cellar. This in turn allows them to demand higher prices from wholesale distributors. At the same time, at the equivalent of 10 to 30 euros their top wines are almost given away – in comparison to similar qualities from France or Italy. They are too expensive for most Germans.

Yet from the generous, assiduous wine drinkers in the country, also including employees from Hungarian subsidiaries of international companies, shortly before Christmas there’s not a drop left in the wine cellars. So, you have to travel there to discover the good and excellent Hungarian wines. A trip that’s worthwhile.

Text: Peter Meleghy