Helmut Zozin, cellarmaster at the Genossenschafts-Kellerei Kaltern adores distinctive, elegant and earthy wines. He has no time for globally standardized tastes or unrecognizably disfigured power plonk. “You should be able to taste the origin of a wine. What is special about our terrain and climate is the balance between fruit and structure in the wines – a pronounced minerality and this range of aromas that can only come about from the interaction with this exciting microclimate. That’s what I want to find in the glass. Only then am I satisfied.” This view is now also shared by many of his colleagues, who produce outstanding, individual wines even from international grape varieties.

Covering some 5000 hectares, the winegrowing region of South Tyrol is located largely in the Vinschgau and Etschtal valleys, in Eisacktal valley and around the Kalterersee (Lake Caldaro) between Bolzano and Tramin. Similarly diverse are the types of soil and its microclimate, which is shielded by the Alps from cold northerly winds and blessed by proximity to the Mediterranean south. The large swings in temperature between day and night also create an extraordinary range of aromas. Almost the entire viticultural area has D.O.C. status and thus counts as Italy’s foremost wine-producing region.

In the mid-eighties names such as Lageder, Schreckbichl, Hofstätter, Girlan and Terlan were responsible for a renaissance of quality. Many cooperatives followed suite and nowadays a younger generation of winegrowers is fuelling this surge of success – with wines that properly reflect local conditions. The best example of this is the Lagrein grape which is indigenous to South Tyrol. For years it was used mostly to make “Kretzer”, a quite agreeable rosé. In the meantime many winegrowers, particularly in the valley vineyards around Bolzano and Kalterersee, have begun producing varietal, richly hued red wines – full-bodied, well structured, with a broad spectrum of fruit and spice.

The same can be said of the Vernatsch, which has of late increasingly caught the interest of viniculturists. Through a reduction in yield and improved cellar technology they have succeeded in developing this wine’s specific character which is defined by gentle tannins and a delicate fruitiness.

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon have been grown in South Tyrol for over a hundred years. Above all in the warmer regions they yield very luscious, fruity and tangy wines, which compare well with their French counterparts. Even Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) – the diva among the grape varieties – has been performing extremely well on the warmer slopes in and around Mazon, in Girlan and the Vinschgau area.

Even if red grape varieties predominate, South Tyrolean white wine is also making good progress towards forging an international reputation. Sauvignon Blancs from South Tyrol are subtly nuanced, multi-layered, full of character and jaunty with a robust tartness. Thanks to the best conceivable growing conditions they now count among Italy’s best white wines.

The fashionable grape variety of the moment is Müller-Thurgau from the higher reaches of the Vinschgau (up to 1000 metres altitude!) and the Eisacktal valleys. It is tangy and mildly spicy with a flowery fragrance. In terms of volume, however, it is Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc) that predominates among the white grape varieties in South Tyrol. It has been cultivated since 1870 and grows in all regions, producing wines with generous bloom and surprising fruity aromas. Pino Grigio (Pinot Gris) comes second among the white varieties and makes for discreetly fruity, full-bodied wines. But Chardonnay here is also surprising for its overall refreshing, acidic character that has little in common with Chardonnays from the New World. Gewürztraminer, whose origins can be traced back to the South Tyrolean locality of Tramin (Termeno), is reputed for its wealth of aromas. In South Tyrol the grape is mostly cultivated for dryness and promises an astounding complexity of exotic fruity scents.

Every fifth bottle of wine from South Tyrol is exported – and unfortunately it is not always of the best quality. The best vintages are drunk by South Tyroleans themselves. Our advice: just to go there and taste it on the spot! After all, the wine route of South Tyrol is 205 kilometres long!

For further information in Italian, English and German: www.suedtirolerwein.it