There aren't many cities where you will encounter 1,000 years of history at once. But that’s exactly what you can do in Luxembourg. Simply take a walk along the corniche, the battlements of the castle that give the city its name – today, the canon and crenels have gone, though the huge walls and stunning views remain.

And it is for this very reason that the corniche is also known as “Europe’s most beautiful balcony”. Your gaze first falls upon the lower town, on the quaint cottages and alleyways of the Grund and Clausen districts, and on the green gardens along the small Alzette river, where walkers feel as if they are in the middle of the countryside, rather than in a European capital city.

In the countryside, however, you would never find as many first-class restaurants so close to one another: the banks of the Alzette form the culinary home of Ilario Mosconi, the only Italian chef to hold two Michelin stars outside of Italy, as well as Frenchman Christophe Petra (the chef at Le Sud, which holds one star).

In total, the grand duchy boasts 13 Michelin-starred restaurants, which, combined with a population of 511,840, gives it the highest per-head count worldwide.

The view to the left from the corniche takes in the Bockfelsen cliffs, riddled like Swiss cheese with passages and caves that were once used as casemates. Around 1,000 years ago, these cliffs formed the base of the very first Lëtzebuerg castle, and visitors today can still climb down into the maze of passageways.

Beyond the cliffs, ultra-modern glass, steel and concrete structures on the Kirchberg plateau rise up into the skies. European institutions, banks, the Museum of Modern Art, and the philharmonic orchestra are all based there. Construction never seems to stop, and anyone with an interest in challenging contemporary architecture will be right at home.

It is the juxtaposition of modern and ancient, provincial and metropolitan, and of course of French, Luxembourgish, German and many other languages (and their speakers) that makes the city so charming. Only about a  third of the population are actually natives.

This colourful mix is also reflected in people’s kitchens. Luxembourg’s cuisine is said to offer “French refinement served in German portions”. The food is often solid and hearty, and at times requires some unusual eating techniques – bouneschlupp for example, a substantial stew featuring green beans, potatoes and ham, is slurped.

Luxembourg’s most famous dish however, is paté au Riesling, where the meat is marinated in Mosel wine. Contrary to what the name suggests, the variety used is actually Elbling, as this wine maintains its acidity during cooking.

Luxembourgers are particularly skilled with dough and pastries, whether serving substantial pies, known here as maufel, sweet, fluffy brioche at breakfast, or quetschentarte – a plum pie with a wafer thin pastry base.

Luxembourg’s most famous chef is perhaps Léa Linster, who prepares local food of the very highest standard. Alongside her restaurant in the nearby town of Frisange, she has recently opened a second venture in Kayl, also just a few kilometres away.

Her “Pavillon Madeleine” offers bistro cooking throughout the day, with diners watching the chefs work while sitting in a futuristic steel cube.

A more traditional option is offered by the cafés in the city centre’s pedestrian zone that belong to the Namur and Oberweiß bakers and confectioners – Luxembourg institutions. Their windows are home to Luxembourgish Riesling paté, French apricot tart and German apple pie.

All delicious and all coexisting happily together.

Text: Birte Petersen

The Spots in Luxembourg

• Mosconi, 13, Rue Munster, L-2160 Luxembourg, tel. 00352/54 69 94, http://www.mosconi.lu/
• Le Sud, 5, Rives de Clausen, L-2165 Luxembourg, tel. 00352/26 47 87 50, http://www.le-sud.lu/
• Restaurant Léa Linster, 17, Route de Luxembourg, L-5752 Frisange, tel. 00352/23 66 84 11, http://uk-lealinster.sitepoint-hosting.de/
• Pavillon Madeleine, 30, Rue du Moulin, L-3660 Kayl, tel. 00352/26 56 64, http://uk-lealinster.sitepoint-hosting.de/
• Confiserie Namur, 27, Rue des Capucins, L-1313 Luxembourg
• Patisserie Oberweis, 19, Grand-Rue, L-1660 Luxembourg
• Fondation Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean , 3, Park Dräi Eechelen, L-1499 Luxembourg, tel. 00352/45 37 85-1 http://www.mudam.lu/
• Luxembourg Tourist Office, http://www.lcto.lu/en/index