The Etihad Airways flight lands on time in the early morning in Abu Dhabi City. Thanks to the airline’s Pearl Business Class, we are well-rested when we start on our tour of the emirate on the Persian Gulf at an outdoor temperature of 27 degrees. We are about to experience water and desert, first the island of Sir Bani Yas, located approximately 170 kilometres from the capital city, then the Liwa desert on the margins of the Empty Quarter.


By seaplane we fly from the Royal Airport over the blindingly white architecture of the capital, past the spectacular Formula 1 course and along the coast. Sir Bani Yas is one of the Desert Islands and in former times could only be visited by royal invitation. With its mangrove-lined lagoons and sand banks declared a nature preserve for Arabia’s endangered animal life by Sheikh Zayed over 25 years ago, it is now home to 23 different species, including the Arabian oryx antelope. As part of his “Greening of the Desert Campaign”, the ruler had bushes and trees planted on Sir Bani Yas which are artificially irrigated with water from desalination plants.

We stay at the “Anantara Desert Islands Resort & Spa“, the first and only luxury hotel on the island. The massive façade on the land side provides protection from excessive heat. On the sea and pool side the shady balconies and cosy terraces of the 64 rooms, suites and villas look very charming. Four traditional wind towers provide air circulation and pleasant indoor temperatures.

A mix of Arabian and African styles defines the interior – dark wood, materials and fabrics in earth tones, intricate engraved metalwork. There is a choice of Arabian and Mediterranean cuisine of the highest quality, seafood, melt-in-your-mouth lamb and outstanding wines – most impressively at a poolside barbecue. The next morning the game drive to see gazelles and cheetahs, the kayak tour through the mangroves and the Wadi Walk before a dramatic sundown help us to burn off those excess calories. One should also not forget the treatments at the Safaa Spa, performed perfectly by Thai professionals.

A change of scene – our goal is the Liwa desert. The dead straight asphalt track passes through a sandy moon-like landscape. We arrive at the “Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara” at twilight, a surreal scenery: Like an old fort the complex rises up from among the sand dunes which are up to 200 metres in height. Constructed in part with old materials and with the assistance of old technology it is meant as a reminder of the emirate’s cultural roots – the ruling family had its origins here.

The 154 rooms, ten royal suites and 42 villas were equipped with hand-made furnishings, including antiques. There are beautiful carpets, materials and fabrics, their colouring oriented towards dark wood as well as red and earth tones. Three restaurants and a bar offer Arabian and Mediterranean specialities. At the Anantara Spa we choose between oriental and Asian treatments, natural essences and rare oils, which are especially recommended after the first camel trek.

Text: Regine Smith Thyme

Further Information:

Etihad Airways, http://www.etihadairways.com

Anantara Desert Islands Resort & SPA and
Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, www.anantara.com